RV Electrical & Solar Repair in Florida

Last updated: August 14, 2026

RV electrical systems have two completely separate sides: 12-volt DC (running from your batteries and converter) and 120-volt AC (running from shore power, generator, or inverter). Most RV owners know when something isn't working, but diagnosing which side of the system is the problem — and exactly where — requires a multimeter, a wiring diagram, and direct experience with how these systems are built. That's what we bring.

Typical Pricing — RV Electrical & Solar System Repair

Prices reflect national averages for Florida. Final cost depends on RV type, parts needed, and site location. Call for a free phone estimate — no charge to discuss your situation.

How RV Electrical Systems Are Structured

The 12V DC side powers your lights, slides, water pump, fans, and control systems for appliances. It runs from your battery bank through the distribution center (fuse panel) and is recharged by your converter when on shore power, by your generator, or by solar panels. The voltage should read 12.6V at rest for a fully charged lead-acid battery and 13.5-14.5V when charging.

The 120V AC side powers your microwave, air conditioner, outlets, and anything else that uses a standard wall plug. Shore power comes through the power cord (30-amp or 50-amp) through a surge protector (if you have one), through the main circuit breaker, and into the distribution panel. When you're not on shore power, an inverter converts 12V DC to 120V AC for appliance use.

Converters (also called converter/chargers) sit between shore power and your 12V system. They charge the battery bank and power the 12V loads simultaneously. The most common converter failure mode is a failed transformer stage that stops charging the batteries — the 12V system works fine while on shore power but your batteries are dying because they're not being charged.

Lithium batteries (LiFePO4) are increasingly common in newer RVs and retrofits. They're compatible with most RV electrical systems but require a converter that has a lithium charging profile. Using a standard lead-acid converter with lithium batteries produces an incomplete charge and shortened battery life.

Signs Your RV Electrical System Needs Service

• Batteries dying overnight even on shore power — converter is not charging the batteries. Check if the converter fan is running; if it's quiet when on 120V, it's likely not functioning.
• Lights dimming when AC or slide runs — voltage drop from a failing battery, undersized wiring, or a bad connection at the distribution center. Check the battery voltage under load — should stay above 11.5V.
• Tripping the shore power breaker — a shore power connection that won't hold usually means a high-resistance connection at the plug or pedestal causing heat buildup. This is a fire risk — address it immediately.
• Specific circuits not working (some outlets dead, some live) — tripped breaker at the panel (reset it), or a failed relay or fuse in the distribution center. Systematic diagnosis by circuit takes about 20 minutes.
• Solar panels not charging batteries — most commonly a failed charge controller, shading on one panel that drags down the whole string, or a wiring connection that has vibrated loose.
• Burning smell from any electrical component — stop using that circuit immediately and call us. Overheated wiring insulation or a failing device can cause an RV fire.

How We Diagnose and Repair RV Electrical Problems

Electrical diagnosis starts at the source and works downstream. We check shore power voltage at the pedestal, at the plug, and at the distribution center. We check battery voltage at rest and under load. We test the converter output. Only after establishing what's working and what's not do we dig into the specific failed component.

For shore power issues, we carry plug testers, multimeters, and replacement 30-amp and 50-amp cord ends on every truck. Most cord-end repairs take under an hour.

For solar installs, we calculate the watt-hours needed based on your usage (AC, refrigerator, lights, devices), size the panel array and battery bank accordingly, and install MPPT charge controllers (more efficient than PWM in Florida's variable cloud conditions) with proper wire gauges and fusing. Every solar install includes a monitoring setup so you can track input and consumption in real time.

For battery upgrades, we can install Battle Born, Renogy, or Battleborn LiFePO4 lithium batteries with the appropriate BMS, and upgrade or replace your converter to ensure the lithium charging profile is correct.

Florida and RV Electrical Systems

Two Florida-specific electrical concerns come up regularly:

• Surge and lightning damage: Florida leads the US in lightning strikes per square mile, according to NOAA. An unprotected RV shore power connection during a storm can see a voltage spike that destroys a converter, inverter, or control board in milliseconds. A Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C or HW30C whole-unit surge protector is the most important accessory an RV owner in Florida can install. We carry and install them.
• Solar productivity: Florida averages 5.5 peak sun hours per day — one of the best solar resources in the country. A properly sized system can run your refrigerator, lights, fans, and devices indefinitely without shore power hookups. We design and install full solar systems with battery backup for full-timers and long-stay campers.

Mobile Repair vs. Taking It to a Dealership

We Serve RV Electrical & Solar System Repair Across Florida

Our mobile technicians cover every major metro area in the state. Current coverage includes Orlando, Miami, Fort Lauderdale, Naples, Fort Myers, Daytona Beach, and all surrounding communities. If you're not sure whether we cover your location, call us — we'll tell you straight.