RV Plumbing & Water Systems Repair in Florida

Last updated: August 14, 2026

RV plumbing is not residential plumbing. The pressure is lower, the pipes are smaller, the connections use different fittings, and the water heater is the size of a microwave. If you call a regular plumber to fix your RV, there's a real chance they'll use the wrong fittings, apply the wrong torque, and create a bigger problem than the one you started with. We work on RV plumbing systems specifically — that distinction matters.

Typical Pricing — RV Plumbing Repair

Prices reflect national averages for Florida. Final cost depends on RV type, parts needed, and site location. Call for a free phone estimate — no charge to discuss your situation.

How RV Plumbing Systems Are Different

Most RVs built in the last 15 years use PEX tubing (cross-linked polyethylene) rather than copper or CPVC. PEX is flexible, freeze-resistant when installed correctly, and much easier to route through an RV's tight spaces. It connects with crimp rings (using a special crimping tool) or with push-to-connect fittings like SharkBite.

Water pressure in an RV is set by a pressure regulator at the city water hookup or maintained by an on-demand demand pump when running on the fresh tank. Most RV systems are designed for 40-60 PSI — above that, fittings start leaking. If you're at a campground without a regulator, high-pressure water damage to RV fittings is common.

Water heaters: Most RVs use either an Atwood/Dometic or Suburban 6- or 10-gallon water heater that runs on LP gas, 120V AC, or both. The most common failures are a failed igniter (gas won't light), a corroded anode rod (rusty hot water smell), or a stuck bypass valve left in the winterize position (no hot water at all).

Tank sensors: Black and gray tank level sensors are notoriously unreliable in RVs because tank residue sticks to the sensor contacts and gives false readings. If your tank sensor shows "full" but you just dumped, the sensor needs cleaning, not replacement.

Signs Your RV Needs Plumbing Service

• Pump cycles constantly — you can hear the demand pump kicking on and off even when no faucet is open. This means there's a slow leak somewhere in the system. Common culprits: toilet flapper seal, flex line connection under the sink, or water heater pressure relief valve dripping.
• No water pressure or intermittent pressure — pump is running but water is weak or sporadic. Most often: a failing pump impeller, a clogged inlet screen (check the strainer on the pump inlet), or a waterlogged accumulator tank.
• Rusty or sulfur-smelling hot water — the anode rod in the water heater is exhausted and needs replacement. Florida water chemistry (high mineral content in many areas) burns through anode rods faster than northern states.
• Water heater won't light on LP — failed igniter, dirty burner orifice, or failed thermocouple. If you smell gas but no ignition, call us before attempting further troubleshooting.
• Wet underbelly or water under the RV — active leak. Could be a fresh water line, gray tank connection, or water heater drain. Find and stop the source before running more water through the system.

How We Diagnose and Repair RV Plumbing

For leak diagnosis, we pressurize the system and listen. Most RV leaks give themselves away with the pump cycling — we shut every faucet, watch the pressure gauge, and then isolate the system in sections to find the leak point.

For water heater service, we check LP pressure at the regulator (should be 11 inches water column for most RV appliances), test igniter spark output, inspect the burner tube for dirt dauber nests (a very common issue in Florida), and verify the bypass valves are in the correct position. Most igniter replacements take under an hour. Full water heater swaps take 2-3 hours including draining, disconnecting LP and water lines, mounting the new unit, and testing on both power modes.

For PEX repairs, we use push-to-connect fittings for most breaks — they're reliable in RV applications and don't require tools. For multiple breaks or runs that need re-routing, we'll use the proper crimp tool for permanent repairs. We carry 1/2" and 3/8" PEX, all common connector types, and both Thetford and Dometic toilet parts on every truck.

Florida Plumbing Considerations for RV Owners

Florida's water has two characteristics that affect RV plumbing more than most people expect:

• High mineral content in central and north Florida (limestone aquifer areas) accelerates scale buildup in water heater tanks and on sensor contacts. An anode rod that lasts 3 years in the Midwest may need replacement every 12-18 months in hard water areas.
• Temperature extremes in winter: North Florida, including Jacksonville, Tallahassee, and Gainesville, gets hard freezes a few times most winters. Exposed PEX lines on slide-outs and undercarriages are vulnerable. If you're staying through January in North Florida, insulate any exposed lines or know where your water shutoff is and how to drain the system quickly.

Mobile Repair vs. Taking It to a Dealership

We Serve RV Plumbing Repair Across Florida

Our mobile technicians cover every major metro area in the state. Current coverage includes Orlando, Jacksonville, Fort Lauderdale, Ocala, Daytona Beach, and all surrounding communities. If you're not sure whether we cover your location, call us — we'll tell you straight.